Monday, August 16, 2004

SEARCHING FOR "EASTERN EUROPE"

My expectations for Eastern Europe consisted of something a bit more rugged, rough, less developed, adventurous, etc than Western Europe. After 10 days in Slovenia and Hungary, I am adjusting my notions. Much of what I have seen so far doesnt differ too much from the western side of europe. While it is not at the same level, the difference has not been as great as I imagined. It certainly appears that the countries set to join the EU have come a long way in the past 15 years.

Back to Slovenia.....Ljubljana, as I think I said, was pretty devoid of residents the weekend we were there, summer vacations and all. A nice calm city though, and well worthy of an additional visit. But it can't quite live up to the region around Bled, in the north west. The Alps, rolling hills, lakes, rivers, gorges, charming houses, etc create an area of stunning beauty. The day we arrived we settled in on the porch of our house with the Dutch lady to watch a equally impressive storm. The sky behind us was dark grey, collapsing around the patches of blue sky in front of us. Sitting back with some tunes and local wine, seemed to be a nice place to watch the storm. About 15 minutes later, everything was grey, wind was blowing furiously, and the skies unleashed a torrent of rain and hail up over a cm in diameter. We quickly sought refuge inside the house. The lady said she'd never seen anything like that. The storm was so strong that it sent a few dozens trees on the far side of the lake to the ground, some uprooted and others snapped in two.

The next day all was clear, and we went on a good 10k hike out of the town, to a river, through a 1600m gorge, and back over a hill to the front side of town. I'd make an effort to describe it, but photos will probably do it more justice. Another hike the third day up a 1000m hill surrounding the lake to get a great view from a tranquil park bench of the lake and city below. Until the 4 kids showed up yelling and screaming, unrestrained by their father. So much for peace and quiet.

Arrived in Budapest after spending the night in Putj, the second train being infinetly more comfortable than the first, but still nothing special. Hungarian trains, not up to Slovanian standards. Made quite a trek through Budapest looking for accomodations before taking a cab to a sure bet. Had plans of a big night out in Buda-Fest. Stopping in a pubs and cafes across the city, made our way to an outdoor venue on the river. Turned out to be a spring break, MTV atomsphere populated by weekend vacationers and other foreigners. Didnt stick around long. Back to town, ended up meeting some local ladies on the street, and went to a club with them, but it was hot as seoul in july in there, so it was a doner kebab and home.

Saturday mesed about the city a bit while chris recovered from a negative reaction to the doner kebab. Kept it quite Saturday night in anticipation of my big outing Sunday to the Hungary Grand Prix F1 race. Figuring I just couldnt be in Budapest during the race and not go, I sorted out the journey of 20min walk, bus, subway, light rail, and 45 min walk to the course. Hoping to pick up a ticket on the cheap, I meandered about for a while before hope faded, and I resorted to the full price GA ticket for 100 euros. Made a little recon around the track and camped out by the first corner for the start. Not knowing the results of qualifying, I was happy enough to see the two red Ferraris leading the pack. And the noise....Full throttle and accelerating, the high pitched scream that you can probably imagine, just a good bit louder. But downshifting into the turns and out of them, the cars seemed to belch in disgust from not being able to maintain top speed at the red line. During the course of the 72 laps, I made my way around a good portion of the track, getting a bit of each perspective. hour and a half later, they finished as they started, Ferrari 1-2. Joined the stampede down to the track for the victory presentation and champagne celebration. Then the unenjoyable 2.5 hr journey back, compounded by the lack of information on buses to the city or signs to the trains.

That night was uneventful, other than superb hungarian guloush at dinner, seasoned with the hungarian staple paprika, and 3 hours of diverse banter over beers between chris and i and the "little irish pub" around the corner from our place.

Today, Monday, we are off to Bucharest in search of "eastern europe" as i had previously imagined. Given that Romania did not receive a bid to the EU, it seems that things should get a bit wilder and more unpredictable. At least we hope. Once the 14 hour night train journey is over, that is.