ROMANIA - A FEW STEPS BEHIND

As does happen on occasion, the 14hr train from Budapest to Bucharest was a stunning surprise. Stocked up on food, drink, and reading material, we made our way on to the train to discover we had a two-person compartment with (relatively at least) loads of space, two beds, power, lights, AC, and storage space. Ah, a welcome improvement from the dodgy trains on the way to Budapest. Time flew by -unlike the train - as we kicked back in our luxurious quarters. Scenery didnt prove to stunning outside the colorful sunset and ubiquitous fields of corn. Darkness set in, the drinks extinquished, then replenished, then extinquished again as we crossed into Romania. A nice bit of peaceful sleep undistrubed until the knock on the door for immeninent arrival.

Wishing to avoid residing in a slum, we had reserved an apartment in downtown Bucarest, including a transfer there. Our man was waiting as expected, and shuttled us to the apartment. A drab communist style concrete building with nothing impressive on the outside had us thinking we got hooked on the bait and switch. However, inside was nice as advertised: kitchen, two bedrooms, TV, couch, balcony, washing mashine, AC, etc. Living the high life.

Bucarest is not a pretty city. Nothing like Llubjana or Budapest. A true relic of the communist dictatorship and concrete dreams of the former dictaror Nicolae Ciscesceau. Once known as "little Paris", but definetly no longer. Depressing concrete buildings everywhere that make Seoul's endless apartment buildings seem attractive. Most areas of the city are run down at best, with not much sign of any investment to be seen outside the heart of the city. Run down cars buzz about the streets, with the occasional Trabant still putting around.

Among the most grandeous remakings of the city saw NC relocate 40,000 citizens and destroy some 600 acres of historical neighborhoods to erect the Parliament, the second largest building in the world (Pentagon being #1), to house his communist cronies and the goverment. It is an impressive building from the outside, especially given its scale and recent construction. The ironic thing being that it was completed in 1989, the year of his downfall and collapse of the goverment.

The goverment and NC started their downfall no more than 150 meters from our apartment in the now named Plaza Revolutieu at the Senate building, where he made his final speech as President on 21 Dec 89. The crowds had lost their love for the man, and were more than eager to show it. Some of the shots fired by police in response to this tore holes in the building to the side of our hotel. On Xmas Day, it all came to an end for NC, as he was captured then tried and executed on TV. Outside of the Parliment and Revolution sites, Bucarest is devoid of attractions for all except the most thorough and desperate of tourists.

So, in the absence of things to see, we found something to do: the first World Cup qualifier for '06 was on that night in Bucarest - Romania v Finland. Set off walking to the stadium, at least where we thought it was. After a good 30 minutes, resorted to a cab. Romanian cabs are notorious for being a bit dodgy as one might expect. This particular lady took us on a night journey through numerous side streets, only to end up 2km down the same street we started on. But when the fare is $1, the hassle is tolerable. Found the stadium by following the crowds, and then the ticket box, which is more or less a rectangular box with a person in it. Not knowing the prices, we got three tickets for what appeared to be the cheap seats. Total outlay: 150,000 Lei, or $4.50.....$1.50 per ticket for a WC qualifier. Nice. Ended up in the second row, behind the endline near the corner. Right next to us a few riot police in full gear. Not sure whether that should make me feel safe or not.....Match was bit slow the first half, but picked up at our send in the second with Romania winning 2-1. Took a good while on foot, bus, and metro to get back to the center, but sorted it out and ended the night with a few beers.

All desired sights seen, set out the next day to sort out transportation to the Danube Delta. After a good 3 hours of walking thru the rough and tumble parts of Bucarest and finding two of the bus stations we didnt need, we found the one we were looking for and made a reservation for 7am the following morning.....only problem being we didnt wake up til 630 the next day, and went to plan B - go to the train station and take a train somewhere.

Destination: Sighasoara in Translyvania and birthplace of one Vlad Tepes.....better known as Count Dracula. Upon arrival 5 hours later, sorted out an apartment in the home of a local couple, fully stocked. Out for some eats, began to realize that Romanian cuisine seems to have taken a second place to pizzarias in the country. They are everywhere, and its much harder to avoid them than find them. Came across a nice joint serving some local fare, and ended up with one of the best meals yet, meat and potato goulash with maize "porridge" and garlic potatoes, bread, and a beer. Excellent eats, at the $3.50 check was just as appealing.

Messed about the city the next day. The reputation of Translyvania as a dark, evil, spooky place is well deserved judging by the eire gothic architecture of the buildings and oldtown as a whole. The most bizarre "attraction" was the clock tower. Quite ordinary despite the random museum like displays on the way up the stairs: a rocket pioneer from the town, pharmacy room, clothing exhibit, tool display, torture room, etc. Outside of that, everything was interesting but nothing stunning. Made the requisite stop at the House of Dracula, where he lived for 5 years as a presumably innocent young lad before being send to the Turks where he mastered his craft as an Impaler, which he would use on over 20,000 unfortunate victims over the course of his stint as governer of the region.

Also ventured out of the city to a authentic local village. Exited the cab to see a dead sheep hanging from its legs behind a wooden fence. Welcome strangers. Walked around for a bit through the dirt streets. Most houses were small, simple, and worn down, with junk and overgrown gardens in the yards. Fields surrounded the village. Atop a small hill where a cemetary was unceremoniously located, we had a nice view of the surrounding area. From there went on to see real poverty - a small Roma (Gypsy) village just a bit further out. Running alongside a ditch flowing with water, a few dozens shack houses were erected. Most the villagers seemed to be hanging out, doing nothing, with the kids messing around in the dirt road. Every last one of them stared at us as we walked through. A bit odd feeling, taking a little tour through their dirt poor worlds. The Roma people have the worst of the worst in Romania, and throughout Europe, and as this village clearly showed.

Writer's cramp. To be continued later from Istanbul, where I just arrived today after another enjoyable enough train ride, this one 18hrs from Bucarest.