Wednesday, July 14, 2004

FIESTAS DE SAN FERMIN
So there was a change in plans in the last few days. And I must give credit to an email from Nate for changing the plans. I had more or less decided against going to Pamplona for the Fiestas de San Fermin and Running of the Bulls, but after an email from Nate about exactly that, I reconsidered and decided there was no way I could be in Spain during the festival and not hit Pampolona.

So Sunday morning at 7am I set off on for San Sebastian by train. 12 hours later, I arrived. SS is a hour north of Pamplona, so I stopped off here for a good night´s rest. The city is impressive, although full of tourists. Two mountians form the mouth of a bay opening into the city, leaving a nice crescent shaped beach right at the foot of the city. Once the rain stopped on Monday, I tok a cable car up to the top of the mountian on the outer side of the city for some impressive views. After that made my final preparations at the grocery store, stocking up on food and beverages to save a bit of expense in Pamplona.

Arrived into a sea of red and white in Pamplona around 830pm. Checked my pack into the luggage storage - only it would have a place to sleep this night - and made my way out to find the encierro route. Walked the route from start to finish making special note of the potentially dangerous areas one would not want to encounter a 1200lb bull at. Recon completed, headed to the main square to chill out and finish off my eats and mix up some calimocho. Started chatting with a local man from SS, and ended up walking around with him for the next few hours. Watched the nightly fireworks in one of the parks, and messed around just about everywhere. Met a couple of Americans sometime around 1am or so, and took off with them throughout the bars and clubs, drinking calimocho and sangria and partying it up. Around 3-4am switched over to water to ensure all my senses would be in top notch come time the rocket went off at 8am signalling the start of the run.

At 530am set off for the street to stake out my location and get a bit of advice from experienced locals. My chosen starting point was at the Esfalta corner, a sharp turn the bulls have trouble making, leaving them to slide into the wall and any unfortunate runners. From there I would be able to see the bulls coming around the prior corner about 100m away. By the time 730am rolled around I had met quite a group of mostly americans, a few who lived in Spain. We started getting our game faces on, when the first of the pre-bull snags hit: The police cleared everyone out of the street, starting at the prior corner. Funny how now of the locals consulted bothered to tell us this. Not knowing what the deal was, the only real thought amongst the crowd was ¨I have to get back in¨. So off we went down the back streets to get to the start, then jumped through the fences to get back in the street. Alrite, all set. After clearing everyone out of the street, the police now let everyone back in. So back to the corner we went. Or so I thought....despite being warned about not taking photos in the street, I figured I could get one off as we moved out. Not quite. Snag #2: The police grabbed me and made me climb thru the fence and off the street. Again ¨I am not going to be in Pamplona and not run. I must get back in¨. Turns out another guy had the same dilemna. So we backtracked, found a clear spot in the fences, and climbed through and back in. 10 minutes and counting. Back to the corner. Adrenaline is pumping now. And then, Snag #3: Police must have recognised me and he came over and told me to get rid of my camera. Not again. Took out the memory card, and told him I would get rid of it. So I gave it to some man sitting front row. But the camera in my pocket. Turned back, looked around, and cop was gone. So I asked the man for the memory card and he gave it back. Tucked it securely away and left it at that.

At this point the sound of the rocket going off was a relief. Waited at the corner looking back until the frantic crowd led the first bull around the corner. Then I was off, as much as a sprint as possible in the crowd. Every look back at the bulls risked a violent colision. About 200m down the street I looked back to see the leading bull but 5 meters back and gaining. Darted to the side to a doorway, watched him go past and right behind him 5 more, nearly shoulder to shoulder. Ran out right behind them and took off for the Plaza de Toros, carefull to ensure there wasn´t a lagging bull cmoing up on me.

Entered the stadium which was full of spectors with another couple hundred runners. The bulls were prompltly guided out the other end of the ring. Was quite a rush to be in the stadium after having run with the bulls, given the history and excitement of it all. Met up with a few of the Esfalta corner crew in the ring, and exchanged cheers for having made it. A few minutes later they send smaller steers, yet still with nice enough horns, into the ring to chase people around and entertain the crowd. Darted around the first few bulls, then jumped into the stadium to relax and watch the spectacle of it all.

That all ended about 9am, and headed out with a few others to claim the pack and get a coffee before jumping a bus out of town. Had a look at the encierro photos before leaving, didnt have any hereoic shots of me with the bulls. But as I turned to leave I saw a former St Pat footballer I knew in Korea - Aaron from Florida. Chatted with him for a bit. Random.

Off to Vitoria at noon, and sorted out a place to stay by 2pm. Then slept til 930pm. Went out for a bit of food and a walk around, then back to sleep by 12am. The plan, as it was since I have to be back by 2pm tomorrow to pick up my concert tickets, was to take the 1040 train to santiago, arriving at 2009 tonight. Turns out it was all booked. As was the only other train heading west. To the net cafe to find a plan B. Sorted - train to Burgos and 0445 bus to Santiago, arriving 1pm. Went to the bus station, uh, booked up. Uh, plan C, "anything that gets me to Santiago before 2pm tomorrow". Alrite, to Bilboa and then from Bilboa to Santiago leaving 145am arriving 115pm. Ah, a nice and pleasant bus ride for 11.5 hrs. Perfect. Sign me up.

So thats where I am now, Bilboa, chilling out til departure. Hope to get some photos up next.