Tuesday, June 15, 2004

AS FATE WOULD HAVE IT
Coimbra, Portugal

Arrived in Portgual with a plan to overcome the lack of accomadations, connections, or tickets. First up: the #91 bus to downtown. Second: Drop off the pack at the luggage storage at the train station. Uh, turns out all storage is closed for security reasons. Go to plan B: __________________. Don´t have a plan B. Spend a good hour walking round the city in the midst of thousands of English fans getting drunk and going nuts, and a few french fans trying to stay our of their way. Its hot enough so i end up resting in a park, devising a plan. Decided upon finding a pub to watch the matches, get some eats, and stay in long enough to shorten the time until departure of my bus at 8am the next morn. Trouble is there aren´t many pubs around, let alone large enough to drop my pack in as well. So its back to messing about the streets. Left, right, straight, right, straight, wherever. Until the lady´s voice, ``necessita un cuarto?`` why yes. and the other packer in her tow, ´´are you irish´´ upon seeing the souel gaels top. So i´ve found myself the only irishman in lisbon and a lady with might possibly be the only vacant room in lisbon. 40 Euros for a double. Sorted. Changed out of the sweaty top and set back to the streets, a nice 35lbs lighter.

Found a tele at a street cafe to catch the end of the stimulating 0-0 match btw croatia and the swiss. then off to find an irish pub to watch the france-england match. Found the place, and as it was, i was the second most irish person in the place, save for my accomplice paddy. And the English were as racous as one might expect, hoping beyong all hope their boys might pull one out. The first goal got things really jumping, and things went off for a good 10 minutes. Second half saw more of the same. After Rooney was taken down in the box for a penalty, it seemed like the dream might come true. Until Beckham blows it. Again. Missed penalty. a moment of despair was quickly followed by encouraging cheers, as if even a missed penalty wouldnt stop them today. The cheers lasted til about the 75-80 minute mark, and from that point on the cheers were progressively replaced by fears. by the 90 minute mark, the pub was as quiet as ever, as if every English fan KNEW things couldn´t be so good. and then they struck, zidane bending in the free. silence. disaster had struck. a sense of depair yet a bit of relief in knowing that they managed a 1-1 draw, keeping all hope alive for the future. then again. penalty for france. zidane scores. kickoff. whistle blows. france wins. not sure if i´ve ever witnessed a scene quit like that. silence. the place clears out. complete shock. yet an sense that they knew, that it was inevitable. through all this the irishman paddy was having to restrain from cheerings and jeering.

Took off to Coimbra the next morning, and spent most of yesterday recovering from the past three days that saw me go from Ubud-Bali-Bungee Jumping-Bangkok-Amsterdam-Lisbon-Coimbra. Got a ticket waiting in Lisbon for the France-Croatia match, and if the bus schedule allows, will try to get out to hte Czech-Latvia match today.